Posts Tagged ‘ skincare ’

5 Simple Skincare Cheats To Improve Your Rosacea

Red faceYou’re red, you’re bumpy and you’re fed-up. Especially now we’re in the throes of winter. You get off the overheated tube into the stinging, cold wind and then back into a centrally-heated office. Your face is tingling and you know without even looking that your cheeks and nose rival those of Santa.

 

You’ve tried lots of anti-redness creams but they sting and burn when you put them on, they don’t seem to do much ….and as for green colour-corrective make-up…forget it.

 

How to get your complexion more compliant? Prescription products are a big part of the story; but I think that the bit that doctors often don’t spend enough time on is the support system. Here are some ways to calm troubled waters with good skincare choices.

 

  • Cleanse with care.

82% of rosacea sufferers complain of sensitivity to skincare products. This is due to a defect in skin barrier function, a part of the disease often forgotten but practically, this is a huge issue for women. “Everything burns” patients frequently say, when it comes to skincare.

So do use gentle non-foaming cleansers containing synthetic detergents, which are labelled fragrance-free (as opposed to unscented). Pat skin dry – don’t rub.

 

  • Ditch counter-productive habits.

This means physical exfoliation is to be avoided. Like, totally avoided. I even recommend skipping using a face cloth. Also skip products with questionable benefit that frequently do harm, like astringent toners – avoid anything with alcohol or witch hazel in it. The one exception to the exfoliation rule is the use of salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, which is useful in those with oily skin and also prone to acne blemishes and comedones, as its anti-inflammatory.

 

  • Moisturise but don’t antagonize.

The right moisturiser will improve skin texture (so often those with rosacea have skin that’s rough to the touch) and boost skin tolerance. I think that moisurising flexibly is a good idea – I talk to patients about good days’ (lighter) and bad days’ ( a little more oomph) moisturiser. Skin is a dynamic organ and it will be oilier in the week before your period and at certain times of year – we should adapt to our environment accordingly. Water-based moisturisers work best and f you’re also prone to acne blemishes (common conditions commonly overlap) stick to non-comedogenic products, from brands like Cetaphil and Avene.

 

  • Don’t skip on UV protection

Physical sunscreen tends to be better tolerated and less irritating than chemical sunscreens; applying moisturiser beforehand facilitates smooth application without annoying pilling, where little white bits come off…and allow time for it to dry before putting on make-up. I think that it is very much worth investing a little more in this product to find one that’s cosmetically elegant to ensure you apply it properly. Not only is sunlight the commonest rosacea trigger, rosacea plus sunlight is a potent way to degrade your dermis and age prematurely. Brrrrr.

 

  • Avoid heavy cosmetics that require a Brillo pad to remove.

 

Keep base light and low risk for irritation (Bioderma and La Roche Posay both do great sensitive skin-friendly products) and use a more high coverage product just where its needed; for this Vichy Dermablend Liquid Foundation works well. Apply with a damp Beauty Blender to gentle build coverage just where its needed.

 

If there any specific questions relating to rosacea I’ve not answered (it’s a big topic, and one of the most searched for on my blog) drop me a line below.

Q:When is acne not acne? A: When it’s perioral dermatitis

I’ve had a cluster of patients presenting with a troublesome facial eruption that’s been mislabelled and thought I’d blog about it because it’s very pleasing to sort and responds rapidly to correct treatment – woo-hoo!

So the common scenario is a female (like melasma, only about 10% of sufferers are men) who has spots near the mouth – within the nose-to-mouth creases and around the chin.

This has a very classic appearance – lots of tiny bumps that look the same, often joining up – but they tend to spare the skin directly next to the lip edge. The skin may be dry and flakey. The bumps on the chin are what tend to lead to the misdiagnosis of acne, as it bears similarity to the distribution of adult female-pattern acne. It can also appear around the eyes (and is then termed periorificial dermatitis) and if severe, spread onto the cheeks. Importantly, clogged pores or comedones are not a feature; this is one of the key features that distinguishes it from acne.

No-one really knows what causes this annoying problem – but the ‘wrong’ type of skin care aggravates it and topical steroids, especially the stronger variants are a common trigger.

When someone presents with this, the first thing I do is to suspend the current skincare regime (and frequently impose a make-up cull). A non-comedogenic regime is the order of the day (I know…I sound like a broken record). We have an excellent choice of soothing, non-clogging products to choose from, courtesy of French pharmacy brands like Bioderma and La Roche Posay and sometimes this will be enough to solve the problem. If topical steroids are the cause, occasionally things get worse before they get better, but stopping them is essential so stick at it.

More severe cases will benefit from prescription medication – my preferred approach is topical (azelaic acid 15-20%) and oral tetracyclines. Usually treatment for 6-8 weeks will sort things out. So satisfying.

A good skin care regime to try if you suffer from perioral dermatitis is as follows  :

Cleanse : La Roche Posay Physiological Cleansing Gel (one of my all-time favourites, non-foaming but effective at removing make-up)

Treatment product – if using a prescription product like Finacea (15% azelaic acid) apply it now, to clean skin morning and night.

Moisturise : Bioderma Sebium Hydra ( a lightweight non-clogging moisturiser for oily skin that’s dry or irritated)

Protect : Obagi Nu Derm Sunshield SPF 50 (lightweight matte finish, excellent physical block without the whitish cast)

Image : courtesy of http://www.drumd.com/